Elvira Gasanova, the Ukrainian designer behind President Volodymyr Zelensky's now-iconic White House outfit, never expected her creations to become the center of geopolitical debate. Speaking from Bucha, Ukraine, on Sunday, she reflected, "Of course, I never imagined this. I have just tried to be a designer who makes special dresses or suits," she said.
Zelensky’s attire during his recent visit to the White House, a three-button knitted polo shirt from Gasanova's menswear label Damirli, made headlines. Paired with matching pants from the same collection, the shirt featured a special embroidered emblem—a tryzub, or trident, the national coat of arms of Ukraine. This was a personal touch Gasanova added specifically for Zelensky, marking the significance of the moment.
The casual nature of the outfit sparked mixed reactions, particularly from political figures like Donald Trump and media personalities such as Brian Glenn. Trump, greeting Zelensky at the White House, quipped, "You’re all dressed up today," while others criticized the informal look. However, Zelensky’s dressed-down style has long been a symbol of his solidarity with the Ukrainian military forces, particularly as the country continues to contend with the devastating effects of war. Since Russia’s invasion, Ukraine’s infrastructure has sustained around $170 billion in damages, according to the Kyiv School of Economics.
Gasanova, whose designs have become a significant part of Zelensky’s wardrobe, explained that Zelensky has not worn a suit since the war began three years ago. "It is a symbol of the unbreakable spirit of a nation standing up for its freedom," she said. Gasanova estimates that 99 percent of Zelensky's wardrobe consists of her creations, emphasizing the importance of his consistent choice to forgo formal attire as a gesture of respect for the Ukrainian soldiers who are on the front lines.
In Ukraine, it is widely believed that a president should refrain from wearing a suit during wartime. This sentiment is part of a broader cultural belief that leaders should align with the people’s struggles, especially during such a challenging period.
During his White House visit, Zelensky reportedly showed photos of Ukrainian prisoners of war captured by Russian forces to Trump and U.S. Senator JD Vance. Gasanova believes Zelensky's actions were an attempt to evoke empathy from the U.S. government. "Maybe he was trying to get some empathy from the U.S. government," she said, adding that the president’s courage in showing such images and speaking out about the war reflects his deep commitment to Ukraine’s cause. “In my mind, our president has really shown his heroic mind. It really is hard for others to understand all that we have seen. We’re living this war. We don’t just speak about it. That’s why only our Ukrainian president can speak about it,” she remarked with pride.
The public’s interest in Zelensky’s attire has had a commercial impact as well. Gasanova noted that sales of the Damirli knitted polo shirt, which retails for 215 euros, surged following the White House visit, particularly from American customers. "Now a lot of people have been buying the shirt. Maybe they want something that a Ukrainian president wore for a historical moment," she speculated.
In addition to her work with Zelensky, Gasanova has dressed a range of celebrities, including Gigi Hadid, Rita Ora, and Kim Kardashian. However, her career has not been without challenges. Throughout the war, she was forced to relocate her production and endured personal hardships, including the destruction of her family’s home in military strikes. Despite these difficulties, Gasanova remains resilient, saying, "Right now we are living in the moment every day. We want to understand what’s going on and what will be tomorrow. Of course, all of us would like the war to stop. But like our president said, we need to stop with some guarantees and the understanding this will not happen again."
As Ukraine continues its fight for freedom, Gasanova and many others are focusing on supporting the army and making efforts to improve life for those affected by the war. "That’s why we’re just living our lives, helping our army with donations, supporting our president, and just trying to make for a better life," she concluded.